Date of trip: February 2009

When I traveled to Spain two years ago, many people chastised me for not making it to Barcelona. It is widely considered the country’s best city and I was told over and over that I needed to visit. This year, several airlines began offering direct flights from the U.S. to Barcelona so Will and I decided the time was right.

I was concerned about theft as I’d heard it was worse in Barcelona than anywhere else in Europe but I found the safety there comparable to any other big city. As long as you are aware of your surroundings and hold on to your valuables, you’re unlikely to have an issue.

Highlights:

-Architect Antoni Gaudi is Barcelona’s most celebrated resident. He created so many buildings in the city that it is impossible to visit without bumping into one of them. Gaudi’s projects are bold, colorful and generally devoid of sharp, severe lines making them warm and playful. They invoke childhood fantasies of secret, magical places you would never expect to find in the real world. Among his most popular creations are the residential buildings Casa Batllo, known for its brightly colored facade, and Casa Mila, famous for its wonderfully detailed roof. His Park Guell, is a failed housing development but serves as a public park with colorful passageways, benches and a beautiful dragon fountain. The park is also home to many Quaker parrots so you’re likely to see or hear them in the palm trees there. Gaudi’s crowning achievement and the most visited attraction in Barcelona is the cathedral, Sagrada Familia. Although construction began on the Sagrada in 1882 and Gaudi worked on the project for over 40 years until his death, it remains a work in progress. It is absolutely astonishing to visit such an ambitious project and know that many people will work on the church but never see it completed. Although visitors can tour the inside of the cathedral, it is mostly filled with construction equipment. You can take an elevator to the top of one of the towers, but it is very narrow up there and it gets crowded so I suggest visiting early if it’s something you hope to do.

-Although he’s overshadowed by Gaudi, architect Lluis Domenech i Montaner was also important to Barcelona. He designed the Palau de la Musica, frequently called the most beautiful music hall in the world. It sits in the city’s old quarter and hosts a variety of performers from all over the world. So many details jump out at you in the Palau but my favorite is the stained glass ceiling that dips into the hall like a giant, glittering raindrop. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photographs. To get inside you must attend a performance or take a guided tour. Tickets for tours can be purchased online one week in advance and this is recommended as they are popular. Montaner also designed the Hospital de Sant Pau, located a ten minute walk from the Sagrada Familia. While most hospitals are sterile and drab the Sant Pau is cheerful and inviting and is actually pleasant to visit.

-The Picasso Museum is hard to find in the alleys of the Barrio Gothic but it’s worth it. The museum holds a wide variety of early and lesser known works including pieces from his blue period and a collection of his ceramics, my favorite Picasso genre.

-Artist Joan Miro also lived in Barcelona and the Fundacio Joan Miro pays tribute to him with a collection of over 14,000 of his pieces. Although Miro was very prolific and has work displayed all over the world, I loved seeing so many in one place. I particularly like his sculptures and textiles of people. The foundation is located in the Parc de Montjuic and can be reached via funicular from the Parallel metro station.

-In 1992, Barcelona was hosted the Summer Olympics and most of the action took place on Monjuic in an area now known as the Olympic Ring. There is a sports stadium and a pavilion as well as an Olympic Museum. I was impressed by how massive the site is and the beautiful view of the city from the top of the mountain.

-La Rambla is the main street in Barcelona and one of its most famous landmarks. It is jam packed with people, street performers, vendors selling souvenirs and pet birds and, unfortunately, pickpockets. It’s hard to say what makes La Rambla so popular. The attraction seems to be the crowd itself. Having lived in NYC, I found it less impressive than others might, but it is definitely part of the the quintessential Barcelona experience. It is safe, but the swarms can be overwhelming and distracting so be sure to hold on to your bag and your companions so you don’t lose either.

-It is unusual to find a big city the contains a beach so it’s always interesting to us when we do. We headed to Barceloneta Beach because we wanted to see Frank Gehry’s Fish sculpture which we’d seen so often in photos. It was too cold for a swim, but Will did venture down to the water so he could touch the Mediterranean Sea for the first time.

Barcelona is part of a section in Spain known as Catalonia. Although the natives are mostly fluent in Spanish and English, they have a language of their own called Catalan. They also have their own flag and their own customs. Catalonians are proud to distinguish themselves from the rest of the country and as a result Barcelona is different from other parts of Spain. It is more cosmopolitan, fast paced and diverse. With so much happening and so much to see, there is truly something for everyone in Barcelona but if you love architecture it really is a place you can’t miss.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Barcelona Links:
Barcelona Official Site
Sagrada Familia
Casa Batllo
Palau de la Musica
Hospital de Sant Pau
Picasso Museum
Fundacio Joan Miro

Check out this video of our trip to Segovia in Spain!

Date of trip: November 2007

Before my trip to Spain, a friend asked if I would be visiting the castle that inspired Cinderella Castle in Walt Disney World. I was interested because I had already seen the “real” Sleeping Beauty Castle in Germany. After a bit of research, I learned that the fortress was located in a city called Segovia, an easy 1 hour and 15 minutes by bus from Madrid. Once Will and I saw pictures of Segovia and its beautiful architecture, we knew we had to go.

Highlights:

-The most famous structure in Segovia is a massive Roman Aqueduct. It is one of the best preserved and most important pieces of Roman engineering in existence. Built around 50 A.D., it is over 90 feet high at its tallest point and stretches over 10 miles. Until recently, it was still used to carry water through the city. It is truly magnificent and sure to impress children and hardened travelers alike.

-The Cathedral of Segovia, completed in 1768, was the last Gothic cathedral built in Spain. It is large, dark and mysterious and, when Will and I visited, nearly empty. We wandered the halls alone while an organ played ominously from above. Outside is a cloister with the tombs of the church’s architects and small museum rooms filled with ancient manuscripts, relics and tapestries.

-Of course, we visited the Alcazar, the aforementioned castle with a replica in Disney World. Built originally as a fortress, it later served as a royal palace. It is beautiful inside and out and there is no better view of Segovia than from atop the Tower of Juan II. It costs an extra 2 Euros and is a bit of a hike, but it’s definitely worth it.

TIP: Bus is the fastest way to Segovia from Madrid and the ride is comfortable and scenic. La Sepulvedana is the name of the company that runs the bus and it can be tricky to find without instructions. Take the Madrid metro to the Principe Pio station. Exit to the Paseo de la Florida, cross the street and take a right. The station is next to the Hotel Florida Norte but you have to go downstairs to buy tickets and then ask where the next bus leaves from. The seats are assigned so be sure to check your tickets for your numbers. When you arrive in Segovia, get off at the second stop which is the center of town. You can get around Segovia on foot. If taking a day trip, buy a round-trip ticket in Madrid but check in at the Segovia station when you are ready to leave for assigned seats on a bus back.

It’s rare to visit a place where you become so immersed in its history, you feel as though you’ve been transported back in time. Segovia reminds me of fairy tales I read growing up and walking through the city is a magical experience.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Segovia Links:
Segovia Mint Tourism Site
La Sepulvedana Bus Service Between Madrid and Segovia (Spanish Only)
Alcazar

Date of trip: November 2007

When Will and I told people we were taking our first trip to Spain, they seemed surprised we would choose Madrid over the more popular Barcelona. We thought Madrid would be a good introduction to the country because we could get there by direct flight and it is, after all, their capitol city.

Highlights:

-Walking is a great way to get around Madrid and pass through many of its open plazas. There’s one on nearly every corner but some popular spaces are the Plaza Mayor, often used for public festivities, the Puerta del Sol, which opens to a large shopping area and is home to the city’s bear statue mascot, and the Plaza de la Independencia with it’s striking Italian archway the Puerta del Alcala.

-Madrid is known for its impressive art housed in three museums known as the “Golden Triangle”. The Prado is the most famous with a fine art collection considered one of the best in the world. The Reina Sofia is often called the “MOMA” of Spain for it’s modern collection featuring several Picassos including his anti war masterpiece, Guernica. It also showcases a large number of pieces by Catalan artist Jean Miro. The final museum in the big three and my favorite is the Thyssen-Bornemisza which has a mix of classic and contemporary art and is a beautiful space. My advice is to buy a Paseo del Arte ticket at the first museum you visit which gives you admission to all three. I also encourage visiting the museums early as they are popular and get crowded late in the day.

-Bullfighting is huge in Spain and though I wouldn’t feel comfortable watching an animal being killed for sport, I did visit the Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas, Madrid’s famous bullring. If you do decide to see a fight, they are held here from March through October. Otherwise, you can just visit the arena which offers tours inside in Spanish. I must warn you that the tour schedule is unreliable and guides may or may not show up at the gate.

-Although Spain’s monarchy no longer reside in the Palacio Real, it is still used for ceremonies and is considered the king’s official residence. It’s rooms are richly decorated and eclectic. Next door, is the Almudena Cathedral, modern by European standards. Stairs lead up to a gleaming gold altar and though you would expect only clergy to be allowed on the top, it is open to the public.

-In Spain, dinner isn’t served until 8pm in most restaurants. Tapas, or small snacks, are eaten throughout the day. Ham is the specialty but there are Spanish olives for vegetarians like me! Chocolate con churros, fried dough strips dipped in cups of rich melted chocolate, are also popular and the best are found at the Chocolateria San Gines. Often overlooked by tourists because it is in an alley, the Chocolateria is best visited in the morning as locals form long lines to get a table at night. Also of interest to foodies visiting Madrid is Botin, named the oldest restaurant in the world by the Guiness Book of World Records. Operating since 1725, the eatery draws big crowds and is nearly impossible to enter without a reservation. If you do end up at Botin without calling ahead, you may still get in provided you are at the front of the line when they open their doors. They keep a few tables open on the other side of the kitchen which they’ll give to those who show up early once the reserved parties are seated. The specialty of the house is suckling pig but the menu has a variety of choices.

Madrid is a vibrant city that embodies Spanish culture and pride. I must say, I found the people to be a bit tough on outsiders, especially foreign Spanish speakers. They didn’t seem too pleased when Will spoke with his South American dialect. None the less, Madrid is safe and easy to navigate and if you are an art lover, it is a place you shouldn’t miss. It is also a great base for exploring other Spanish cities as there are many wonderful, smaller towns within an hour’s drive or bus ride.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Madrid Links:
Madrid Official Site
Museo Nacional del Prado
Museo Reina Sofia
Thyssen-Bornemisza
Madrid Plazas
Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas
Palacio Real
Botin