On our visit to Peru, Will was adamant that we make a trip to Lake Titicaca. At 12,500 feet above sea level, it is the highest lake in the world that large commercial vessels can navigate and it is the biggest lake in South America. I was a bit unenthusiastic because of the travel time involved, but it turned out to be one of the most interesting and beautiful places I’ve been to.
The city of Puno is the base for exploring Titicaca and there are a limited number of ways to get there. You can fly into Juliaca airport, an hour away, or you can travel by bus or rail. We opted for the train from Cusco called the Andean Explorer which takes roughly 10 hours. Although it’s considered first class and includes lunch, the setup is fairly basic. What makes the Andean Explorer special is its route. The ride through the Andes mountains is absolutely stunning and I think you would be hard pressed to find a more spectacular journey by rail anywhere in the world.
In Puno, we met up with a guide who took us by boat to the famous floating Uros islands. The islands are man-made, woven out of totora reeds by the native people who also build reed houses and reed boats. The terrain is uneven and your feet sink in a bit but it’s very stable considering it’s built on water. Although they speak little English, the Uros people are very friendly and love visitors. They showed us how the islands are built and rebuilt, took us out on their boats and invited us into their homes. The houses are simple, but have solar powered electricity and even television. Before we left, Will and I had to buy one of the beautiful woven textiles the women create and sell to tourists.
Next we traveled to Taquile, an island which offers great views of Lake Titicaca and Bolivia. Taquile is home to 1700 people, most of them farmers. We hiked around the island, dodged a couple of grazing sheep and ate quinoa soup with vegetables prepared by some locals. We also had some delicious, mint-like tea grown right on the island.
After the tour, which took most of the day, we wandered around Puno, a somewhat unimpressive, small city. We visited a church in the square and a few shops. The main attraction is clearly Lake Titicaca and to see the best areas, a boat tour is a must.
Calling Lake Titicaca unique is an understatement. Where else can you meet people that not only build their own homes, but create the actual land they live on? There have been few times in my travels that I’ve been as inspired and impressed with the locals as I was on this trip. The islanders on Lake Titicaca are proof that no matter what conditions people find themselves in, they can accomplish amazing things working together.
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I really didn’t know what we were getting into when I signed us up for a trip to the Tambopata Jungle in the Peruvian Amazon. As an animal lover, my motivation was to see rare and exotic wildlife in their natural habitat. Although there are several reserves that travelers can visit in the Amazon, the Tambopata requires the least amount of travel time. It’s a short flight from Cusco to Puerto Maldonado and a 45 minute canoe ride to the Posada Amazonas, an eco-friendly lodge in the heart of the rainforest.
Be Aware:
-Insect repellent is essential and a yellow fever shot is required before entering the jungle. Will and I even brought headnets and our own bed tent. Protection is key in preventing insect borne diseases.
-Large suitcases must be left at the office in Puerto Maldonado so be sure to bring a smaller pack to bring essentials to the lodge for your stay.
-The weather in the Tambopata can be unpredictable, especially if you go during the rainy season like I did. The lodge provides rubber boots but you should bring a rain-jacket or poncho.
-There is no electricity at the lodge, just kerosene lamps until 9pm at which time you’ll need to get by with a flashlight so be sure to pack one.
-The food at the lodge is excellent. It is always served on time and once it’s gone that’s it, so it’s important to be prompt for meals. Special diets are accommodated as long as you make your requests in advance.
Highlights:
-Sleeping at the Posada Amazonas is part of your unique experience there. Rooms are similar to those at other jungle lodges along the Amazon. There is one wall missing so your room is open to the outdoors. The ceiling is open to a thatched roof shared by all guests and the beds are equipped with nets. There are private bathrooms, but no hot water and there are curtains instead of doors. You definitely feel close to nature. My favorite moment at the lodge was finding howler monkeys eating in the trees right outside my room.
-Wildlife is most active in the jungle before dawn so tours begin with a wake up knock on your wall at 4:00am. We saw a jaguar (very rare), a capybara, monkeys and many birds. Whether you are in a boat or on foot, it’s best to keep quiet if you hope to spot animals. The guides are happy to share their binoculars and answer any questions.
-20 minutes from the lodge by foot, there is a canopy tower reaching nearly 100 feet into the sky. The platform at the top offers an unparalleled view of the jungle. You can see a large stretch of the Amazon River and perhaps some flocks of parrots will fly past you. If you are afraid of heights and can’t make it to the top, there are other lookouts located at various levels along the climb.
-Birds are everywhere in the rainforest. Throughout our time at the lodge, we heard parrots in the trees overhead. A great place for birdwatching is at a claylick. Many of the berries in the jungle are poisonous so the birds in the area lick clay to counteract the poison and ingest minerals. Not far from the lodge is a large lick where macaws frequently gather. Whether you’re a fan of birds or not, it’s impossible not to be impressed by the beauty of wild scarlet macaws.
-The Amazon is home to many fish including meat eating piranhas. During our visit we got a chance to fish for the feisty creatures and see them up close. Our guide even got one to bite into a leaf so we could see its toothprints.
The Posada Amazonas is not a five star resort but it’s not as rustic as I expected either. The staff work tirelessly to ensure the comfort of their guests while running a ecologically responsible lodge. For me, two nights in the jungle was just enough time for me to enjoy the experience without missing my hot showers too much!
Rainforests are home to the most concentrated numbers of plants and wildlife in the world. Environmentalists always talk about saving them, but nothing will convince you more to join the cause than visiting one.
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If you travel to Peru, you will likely see the ancient Inca city, Machu Picchu. It’s one of the world’s most famous attractions and country’s most visited. Although Will had been to Peru many times, he had never seen the legendary ruin so we were thrilled to go. It is a Peruvian Historical Sanctuary, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.
Highlights:
-There are only two ways to get to Machu Picchu: a hike on the Inca Trail, which can take four days to fully complete, or a four hour train rain from the city of Cusco to Aguas Calientes. There are three train types available at varying cost and comfort levels. The Hiram Bingham train is all first class with meals included, the Vistadome is middle range with snacks and large glass windows and the Backpacker is a standard no frills train for those on a budget. We chose the Vistadome and the ride was beautiful. The train travels forward and backward over switchbacks, up a hill, to leave Cusco. There were dancers and a fashion show to keep us entertained along the way. If you choose to hike, a permit is required and the experience is rustic with nothing but wilderness in sight. All supplies, including camping gear, must be carried in and out.
-Aguas Calientes is a small but vibrant and welcoming little city. Most people that stay overnight near Machu Picchu stay here. There are plenty of inexpensive hotels in the area as well as markets and restaurants to check out. It’s located in a valley with green mountains surrounding it and a bubbling river rushing through. There are also thermal pools in the area to relax in after a long day of walking.
-To get to Machu Picchu, there is a bus that runs every 10-30 minutes (whenever the bus fills up) from the center of Aguas Calientes. The scenic ride takes about 20 minutes and is filled with twists and turns. When you return, try to sit near the front of the bus and keep your eyes open for the native boys who run alongside and wave the entire way down. It’s an impressive feat and they will expect a tip when you get to the bottom!
-If you have money to burn and are prepared to make reservations well in advance, you can stay at the only hotel right on site, the Machu Picchu Sanctuary Lodge. There are just 31 rooms and prices start at $800, but it’s consistently top rated among world class hotels. Although staying was a bit out of our price range, we had an excellent buffet lunch there.
-The best part of visiting Machu Picchu is Machu Picchu!! You will never forget the first time you rest your eyes on the ruin. The drifting fog, the llamas trimming the grass and the chinchillas scurrying across the rocks are all remarkable, but it’s the size of the site that will really take your breath away. There are a lot of mysteries surrounding the ancient city, what is was used for and why it was abandoned. We had a guide take us through some rooms and temples and describe some theories on how they were used. I loved just wandering and soaking it all in. Walking around Machu Picchu can be challenging as there are many steep steps but, if you are in pretty good shape, I recommend hiking up the main peak, Wayna Picchu for an unparalleled view. It is a tough climb straight up and will take about 2-3 hours round trip, but it’s worth it.
Machu Picchu is a special place. A visit there fills you with an energy that will stay with you long after you leave. Although you can travel there and back from Cusco in just one day, I recommend staying in the area overnight to allow yourself ample time to see everything. I also suggest visiting off season or near opening or closing times as crowding is a problem. Getting stuck in a line or surrounded by huge tour groups will seriously take away from your enjoyment of the ancient city. Will and I were lucky enough to visit on Christmas day right after a rain storm and the park was virtually empty. Exploring in complete silence was amazing.
Machu Picchu is considered an endangered historical site as the influx of tourists has taken a toll. Guests should do their best to leave the site as they find it; don’t leave trash anywhere, don’t touch or move any rocks or dirt, tread lightly, talk quietly and be respectful. We are fortunate to have such a beautiful piece of history intact and available to us and we have a responsibility to preserve it for future generations.
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Cusco is one of the most frequently visited cities in Peru. Its location makes it an ideal base for exploring some of the most spectacular areas in the country. Its airport is the closest to Machu Picchu so most travelers headed there end up passing through.
Since Cusco is 11,500ft above sea level, altitude sickness is a danger. It’s important for visitors to take it easy while they acclimatize. The staff at the hotels in the city are very aware of this issue and will do all they can to help. Most will offer coca tea which is known for relieving some altitude symptoms and all have oxygen on hand in the event a guest gets very sick. Will and I decided to take the prescription drug Diamox (half a pill, twice a day beginning the day before we arrived) and overall we did pretty well. We also found the coca tea helpful and actually liked the taste of it. Whether or not you decide to take the pills, be aware of how you are feeling and let someone at your hotel know if you don’t feel well.
Highlights:
-The center of Cusco has a European flavor and is a safe and fun place to wander about. The main square is a bustling area full of restaurants and stores and home to their main Cathedral. It is full of native people wearing their customary bright clothing and selling handicrafts. Most people are happy to pose for pictures, but be aware that they expect a small tip…even the little children.
-Although Machu Picchu is without a doubt the most famous Inca ruin, there are many interesting ruin sites in Peru and several near Cusco. Sacsayhuamán and Pukapukara showcase the Incas’ mastery of building with stone and their unexplained ability to move giant boulders without modern construction equipment. Ollantaytambo is an impressive example of their stair-like architecture and is important because there are also pre-Inca structures on site.
-The Sacred Valley, just one hour from Cusco, was a key area for the Inca people because its climate presents optimal farming conditions. Its mountains offered protection from attacking tribes and it’s also a breathtakingly beautiful setting. Even today it remains a coveted living area for Peruvians. There are a variety of hikes that visitors can take to enjoy the valley and they vary in difficulty.
-Not far from the Sacred Valley is the village of Pisac, home to the most famous market in South America. Pisac Market, open on Sundays, is large and touristy but if you are looking for Peruvian clothing, crafts or souvenirs, you can find it all at a good price here. There is also a food area with everything from corn to pastries.
-Many people know that the llama is an important animal in Peru. Locals raise them for wool and meat and children seem to consider them pets. The alpaca, which is a smaller version of the llama is most often used for soft wool to create scarves and sweaters you can buy all over the country. There is another little animal, similar to the llama but even smaller than an alpaca, called the vicuna. The vicuna have big, curious black eyes and their wool is considered the absolute best. Products made with vicuna wool are somewhat rare and very expensive but so soft and luxurious. Usually vicuna goods are kept behind glass. If you see something cheap labelled vicuna, it’s probably fake. We actually saw a scarf being sold for $600 that came with its own little case!
Sometimes I have a hard time describing certain places I’ve visited because I feel the experience was very visual. With its bright colors, historical sites and sweeping natural landscapes, Cusco falls into that category. I hope my pictures will do justice where my words fail.
For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.
Of all the places Will and I planned to visit on our trip to Peru, I was most worried about Lima. Many people had warned me about rampant crime, corruption and unsafe conditions in the city. While I’m sure these still exist in some sections, we were delighted to find Lima a pleasant, safe and fun place. It actually has a very American feel to it. We chose to visit the central area on a tour, which I recommend as it could be tricky trying to get around by cab or bus. Will, who had visited many times before, says Lima has changed a lot and he was very pleased with the direction it seems to be heading. That said, it is developing and you should take the same precautions you would in any city and remember not to drink the water!
Highlights:
-Miraflores is one of the nicest areas in Lima and it’s easy and safe to wander around. There are plenty of shops and restaurants including the Larcomar center, down by the water. Larcomar offers a beautiful view of the coastline which is worth checking out during the day and after dark as well.
-La Rosa Nautica restaurant is famous not only for it’s food but also it’s location right on the water. Also in Miraflores, it is the perfect stop for an excellent lunch or dinner. During the day you can look out on the ocean and watch the surfers or marvel at the paragliders sailing overhead. After you eat, you can visit the small gift shops along the pier for great Peruvian gifts.
-El Parque del Amor the “Love Park” is a favorite of the locals. Set on a cliff overlooking the ocean, it features a giant statue of a couple kissing called El Beso(the kiss) by sculptor Victor Delfin. Every Valentine’s Day, couples gather under the monument and compete in a longest kiss contest. The park walls are tiled with messages of love written in Spanish and Quechua, a native Peruvian language.
-Most people don’t expect to find ruins in the midst of a city, but Lima actually has a few archaeological sites. One such place is Huaca Pucllana, also known as Juliana. Built by pre-Inca people around 400 A.D., the mud brick pyramid is thought to have been a center for religious ceremonies. Although Huaca Pucllana is open to visitors, it is still undergoing excavations. A small museum showcases some of the artifacts that have been unearthed. Also of interest are the hairless Peruvian dogs which are kept on site as part of the historic scenery. Like the ruins, this breed of dog is over 3,000 years old and their black skin and yellow mohawks give them a unique appearance indeed.
-In central Lima you will find the Plaza de Armas, the main square. Outside the plaza is the Palacio del Gobierno where the president of Peru lives. The palace offers tours and you can also catch the changing of the guards every day at noon. Close by is La Cathedral, Lima’s main cathedral which is connected to the Palacio Episcopal or bishop’s palace, known for it’s beautiful wooden balconies. The cathedral was created by the Spanish conquerors led by Francisco Pizarro who placed the first stone during construction and is buried inside. Although it is a Catholic church, it was built primarily by Incas forced to convert to the religion and there are many symbols of their pagan beliefs hidden within the cathedral’s paintings and sculptures.
-About a 10 minute walk from the city center is the Iglesia de San Francisco, a church well known for its catacombs. It was Lima’s first cemetery and the bones have been dug up and filed into bins by type. It is fascinating though perhaps unsettling to see all the bones, at times arranged in grotesque art-like patterns. Upstairs is a pretty cloister and impressive artwork undergoing restorations; most notably a painting of the Last Supper featuring guinea pig as the main course! There is also a library which is absolutely beautiful but sadly deteriorating as lack of funding prevents the air conditioning necessary to protect the old books.
-Although I enjoyed the Museo de Oro del Perú or Gold Museum, visitors should be aware of its troubled history. Once considered a world class exhibit of pre-Colombian gold artifacts, it was revealed a few years ago that much of the collection was actually fake. The museum was fined and claims to have removed the unauthentic pieces, but it is unclear at this point whether those claims are genuine. Still, I learned a lot about Peru’s history here and I think it’s a place worth visiting. In addition to the jewelry on display, there are mummies and examples of ceremonial clothing and weaponry. Outside there are gift shops featuring local crafts at reasonable prices.
Lima is an up and coming city working diligently to compete on the world stage as a center for business and recreation. Although people have been passing through while visiting Peru for many years, more and more they are extending their stays in the country’s capitol to enjoy its rich history and scenic coastline. I loved Lima and I believe in the years ahead it will continue to grow and become a top travel destination in South America. I know I will be back!
For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.
