Date of trip: November 2005

I really must sing the praises of international travel during Thanksgiving. While the domestic terminals are crawling with travelers, the international terminals are quiet and fairly empty.

Will and I decided to head to Berlin for the holiday. Sure it’s cold in Europe in November, but it’s cold here in the Northeast so it was no big deal to us. We picked Berlin because we felt it would get us in a festive mood for the holidays. After all, the name Kris Kringle and the idea of Santa Claus was born in Germany and its Christmas Markets are legendary.

We LOVED Berlin. It reminds me of NYC but it’s cleaner, bigger and much more efficient. Also it’s less expensive and has better food!

I had spoken to many people who had visited Berlin before our trip. Many advised me that the German people are very proper and strict about following all rules at all times. I really liked the people. It’s true that they do act very appropriate in public…they wait for the walk sign to cross the street, they never litter and always recycle. They don’t push in a crowd and they aren’t loud. I think many people mistake this as coldness, but I don’t think that’s it. I think they are just as warm as anyone when you are one on one. It is funny to speak to non Germans in Germany though…they seemed to really like us because we were so expressive about our love for things we ate or saw and I think that foreigners living in Berlin miss that.

Highlights:

-Shopping on the Kurfürstendamm or Ku’damm is like nothing I’ve ever seen. It’s Berlin’s version of Madison Avenue, but it’s soooo much longer! It will also lead you to the Kaiser Wilhelm, a famous church bombed by the allies in 1943. The church was destroyed except for the west tower which stands shattered to remind Berliners of the destruction of war and also of their resolve to rebuild.

-Across from the Kaiser Wilhelm stands KaDaWe, the Harrods of Germany. It is the second biggest department store in the world. Harrods is the biggest, but KaDaWe has larger food halls and is, in my opinion, much easier to navigate. The tea area is probably my favorite section as they lay out little bowls of each tea so you can smell them and decide which to buy.

-Berlin’s Zoologischer Garten or zoo/aquarium is just a bit further down on the Ku’damm. It was created in 1844 and though bigger zoos exist, West Berlin’s has the largest number of different species in the world. I don’t know if there’s an animal out there that you can’t find here. Highlights for us were the giant pandas, the baby elephant, eels larger than me and the parrot house…though it was just a tad too loud in there. Recently, the Berlin Zoo has been in the news because of the addition of Knut, a baby polar bear to their family of animals.

-The Brandenburg Tor stands as a gate between the East and West sides of Berlin. When the Berlin wall stood, it split the gate right in half. It is the most recognizable landmark in Berlin as it represents its unification. The statue on the top of the gate was stolen by Napoleon and taken to Paris during Berlin’s occupation by France in 1906. After the Battle of Waterloo, it was brought back to Berlin as a symbol of victory.

-The Reichstag is home to Germany’s parliament and rich with history. When it was destroyed by fire in 1933, the Communists were blamed which gave a boost to Hilter’s party who soon gained power. At the end of World War II, Soviets flew their flag at the Reichstag symbolizing Germany’s defeat. Today the Reichstag is a favorite for tourists because of its famous glass dome which you can walk to the top of for a stunning view of the city. As it’s a very popular attraction, you can expect to wait at least 45 minutes to get in during the winter and even longer in the summer.

-There are over 170 museums in Berlin so it would be impossible to see them all in one visit. I think the Pergamon Museum would be a shame to miss though. Its name is taken from the Pergamon Altar, a Greek altar the size of several houses located inside their front room. The coolest thing about the altar, aside from the fact that it is indoors, is that you can walk on it! If that’s not impressive enough, the next room contains the actual Babylonian Gates and the processional walk leading up to them!

-If art is your thing, the Berggruen Collection would be hard to top. It is the premiere Picasso museum with over 80 of the artist’s works and an audio tour explaining the significance of many in Heinz Berggruen’s own words. How does he know so much? Well, the fact that Picasso was a personal friend likely plays a part.

-There’s nothing like a German Christmas Market to get you in the holiday spirit. If the vendors selling Christmas trinkets and treats don’t reel you in, the gluwein stands probably will. Gluwein is a mixture of wine, brandy and cinnamon with a shot of amaretto, whisky or rum, served hot. It tastes kind of like spiked apple cider, but REALLY spiked…it’s quite strong. The coolest thing about the gluwein is that it’s served in Christmas mugs which you pay a refundable deposit for so you can sip while you walk the market. If you don’t feel like walking, heated stands are set up for resting and chatting.

-Last, but not least, the food in Berlin is phenomenal. Not everyone speaks English so it was a bit challenging for me as a vegetarian to be faced with menus in German. Luckily, the word for vegetarian was obvious so we just looked for a restaurant that offered veggie food and I chose a dish not knowing what I would ultimately get. It worked out just fine and it was kind of fun being surprised when my meal was served.

Berlin is a city steeped in history. From France’s occupation to Hitler’s rule to World War II resulting in it’s division by the Soviets and the Americans, so many important and historic events took place there. I found myself so impressed with Berliners. They epitomize human weakness and strength and their will to survive and overcome is nothing short of amazing. Remember, Berlin was completely destroyed in World War II…just demolished. The loss of life was equally astounding. Even today, thousands of corpses are found each year in and around Berlin. Although the city has rebounded, they are still rebuilding and construction sites are plentiful, especially on the East side. Many people described Berlin to me as a city in constant change as it is rebuilt and grows. As much as I love it now, I can’t wait to go back in a few years and see how it’s different.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Berlin Links:
Berlin Official Site
KaDaWe
Berlin Zoo
Pergamon Museum
Museum Berggruen
German Christmas Markets

Date of trip: March 2007

Our trip to Cologne was not something we had been planning but when Continental began offering direct flights there from Newark and I saw how cheap the tickets were ($270/person WITH TAXES!!), I couldn’t resist. Having travelled to Germany before and loved it, we were happy to return. I was shocked at how many people asked me if the only place we were going to was Cologne, as if it’s not a good enough city to stand on it’s own. Even Germans we encountered were surprised to find us there. The truth is, it’s an incredible city with plenty to offer and I hope this new direct flight will encourage more visitors.

Highlights:

-The Dom cathedral in the center of the city is somewhat of a mascot for Cologne. You will see it’s towers printed on everything from T-shirts to store fronts to the labels on Kolsch bottles, the local beer produced and served only in Cologne. It is also the most visited attraction in all of Germany. It’s dark and Gothic inside and out. You can enter the Dom during the day and look around the inside for free as long as there are no services in session. If you want to see the church treasury collection or go up to the roof for a view of the city, there is a charge. Don’t miss the pixel like stained glass window Symphony of Light.

-Much of Cologne was bombed out during World War II and as a result, ruins from the Roman Empire were discovered under the rubble. The Römisch-Germanisches Museum houses a huge collection of Roman artifacts and a beautiful, almost fully intact mosaic called the Dionysis Mosaic which was found during construction of an air raid shelter. You can also go underground and view the remains of the Praetorium, the Roman governor’s house.

-Cologne has a thriving art scene and if you like modern art, you shouldn’t miss Museum Ludwig. It has the largest collection of pop art outside the US…think Warhols and Lichtensteins.

-Although Lindt chocolate is officially Swiss, they have a large factory right outside of Cologne and were thus inspired to open the Schokoladenmuseum located right on the Rhine river. Here you can learn how chocolate is made, watch some Lindt treats being created, and sample or purchase some for yourself. The gift shop is extensive to say the least!

-In case you haven’t yet made the connection, cologne, the perfume product, did in fact get it’s name because it was invented in Cologne, the city. You can visit the 4711 Glockengasse to learn about the invention and buy some of the original scent, 4711 cologne. You can even freshen up at the fountain at the front of the store which flows with (what else?!!) cologne. As a bonus, if you are there on the hour you can watch the clock chime out front.

-I wouldn’t say it’s a flat out must see, but if you have children, or maybe you’re a child at heart, the zoo in Cologne is quite good. It’s large with an attached aquarium. The main attraction when we visited was a baby elephant who we had the pleasure of watching swim and play in a watering hole with his family. Across the street from the zoo is a very pretty and free botanical garden, perfect for an afternoon stroll.

-If the weather is nice you will find everyone in Cologne along the Rhine River. Walking across the Hohenzollern Bridge is a must and provides the absolute best photo views of the city.

-We took a day trip to Bonn, a city only 20 minutes away, to see Beethoven’s family home. It was so cool to see his first ever tiny piano and learn about his life and amazing talent. While in Bonn, we also visited the Kunst Museum where the modern artwork is not as impressive as that in Cologne but the light towers on the roof were fascinating. We also stopped into a mass at the the Münster, the old cathedral in the city’s center.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Cologne Links:
Cologne Official Site
The Dom
Museums of Cologne
Schokoladenmuseum
4711 Glockengasse
Beethoven House
Kunst Museum

Date of trip: November 2006

Will and I were off on our Thanksgiving trip to Europe and a lot of people have asked me why we chose Munich. I suppose it was partly because we loved Germany so much when we visited last year and partly because flights to Europe are so expensive this year and we found a good deal. I was expecting a quaint “Hansel and Gretel” like town but it was actually quite a touristy city. The best part of the trip was driving south to the Alps….that was beautiful.

Highlights:

-The Residenz is the coolest and most interesting museum in Munich. It is a series of ornate apartments that originally housed Bavarian royals and rulers. There are over 130 extravagantly decorated rooms and the crown jewels are also on display.

-The Deutsches Museum is the largest and considered the finest museum of science and technology in the world. It’s not very interactive and it leans more on the side of technology but there is something to impress everyone here. It is a huge and somewhat overwhelming place but a must see. My favorite exhibits are the transport section where you can see a passenger plane cut open to reveal how the luggage is stowed and the glass blowing area where you can watch a glass blower work and actually buy some of his creations.

-Although I found the Marienplatz, the main square in Munich, crowded with tourists, it is fun to catch the Glockenspiel chiming on New Town Hall. At 11am, 12pm and 9pm, the clock plays music and the figures in the middle act out a battle scene and a celebration. Although I don’t think it lives up to the hype, it is unique and worth checking out if you are going to the area.

-Also in Marienplatz is the most famous pub in the world, Hofbrauhaus. This is very touristy and crowded but it’s still worth a visit. The music is live and loud and waiters walk around selling giant pretzels. The beers are huge and the food is pretty good. It can be tricky finding a table and don’t expect any help from the somewhat rude waitstaff, but your best bet is to go around to the back to the non-smoking section.

-A couple more quick stops in Marienplatz are the Viktualienmarkt, a large market where you can buy everything from produce to cookies to hot dogs and the Spielzeugmuseum, a small but cool toy museum in a tower over looking the square.

-One of my favorite things about Germany is their chocolate and Munich is no exception. There are many chocolate shops all over the city and even in the department stores where you can buy delicious treats you will never find in the U.S.

-Although it’s not in Munich, Neuschwanstein Castle is only about 2 hours away and is well worth the trip. Driving on the Autobahn is…….interesting. The drivers are aggressive but respectful and the roads are incredibly smooth. There are many sections where there is no speed limit so it’s important to be alert at all times as people are constantly whizzing by. As you approach Neuschwanstein, the Alps loom over you and the countryside is stunningly beautiful. Here is where things look “Hansel and Gretel”! If the castle looks familiar to you, that’s because it was the inspiration for Sleeping Beauty Castle in Disneyland and has appeared in many movies and television shows. It also graces just about every book about Bavaria and many about Germany and is the most visited castle in the world. It was built by King Ludwig II in the late 19th Century. Ludwig thought building a fairytale castle would help the people of Bavaria forget their troubles. Bavarians however were horrified at the amount of money spent on the castle and had Ludwig declared insane and removed from power. As a result, the castle is mostly unfinished on the inside and Ludwig only lived in his dream home for just over 100 days. He was found drowned the day after being removed from the castle and to this day there is debate as to whether his death was an accident. Neuschwanstein is the ultimate fantasy castle, but is is best enjoyed on the outside as many rooms were never decorated. There is a video shown inside which can only be described as different…very German….it should not be missed. I recommend buying your tickets online in advance because it is so popular. Also, the walk to the top may not look too tough, but as it’s a straight up hill, taking the horse drawn carriage at least one way is a great option. Nearby is the Marienbrucke Bridge which offers the absolute best view of the castle and Hohenschwangau, the smaller castle Ludwig grew up in. The towns in the surrounding area have plenty of cute shops and restaurants to round out your day trip.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Munich Links:
Munich Official Site
The Residenz
Neuschwanstein Castle
Hofbrauhaus Munich
Deutsches Museum