Date of trip: December 2009

I first wanted to visit Palm Springs years ago when I read that Elvis Presley had spent his honeymoon there. I figured if it was nice enough for The King, it was surely nice enough for me. Even though it’s located in the desert, it’s anything but desolate and it’s just under a two hour drive from Los Angeles.

Highlights:

-Since Palm Springs is so flat, it tends to get very windy which makes it the perfect location for a wind farm. You can’t miss the huge one located in the San Gorgonio Pass consisting of more than 3,000 windmills. The giant white structures line the ground in neat rows all the way to the horizon and it’s quite a sight.

-A great way to see the city is to ride the Palm Springs Aerial Tramway to the top of Mount San Jacinto. No matter where you stand, you’ll get to see everything because the tram rotates 360 degrees as it moves. In fact, it’s the largest rotating tram in the world! At the top there are restaurants and various activities like hiking or snowshoeing depending on the season.

-Palm Springs has many excellent hiking trails and the most popular are located in the Indian Canyons. The canyons sit on the Agua Caliente Indian Reservation but are open to the public daily for a small admission fee. Will and I hiked Palm Canyon, so called for it’s large palm tree oasis that winds along the ravine at the bottom. It’s so peaceful and was one of the nicest hikes I’ve ever done. We also really enjoyed Tahquitz Canyon which has a 2 mile loop trail that leads you past Tahquitz Falls, a pretty, 60 foot waterfall.

-I didn’t expect to find a world class art museum in the desert, but the Palm Springs Art Museum is just that. It has an excellent collection of American and local art and a great glass studio. It also hosts a variety of impressive special exhibitions.

-If you happen to drive in or out of Palm Springs via Highway 10, be sure you stop in Cabazon to see the famous dinosaurs at the truck stop there. The huge Apatosaurus and Tyrannosaurus Rex statues may be random, but they will definitely make you smile. Nearby, Hadley Fruit Orchards is a great place to stop for some of their famous trail mix or a delicious date shake.

Even though most people think of Palm Springs as a seasonal destination, it’s actually a vibrant city year round. It does get very hot in the summer but there are plenty of pools and fun indoor attractions equipped with air-conditioning. It’s a calm, laid-back city but it’s a city none the less filled with people of all ages and a wide variety of things to do.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Palm Springs Links:
Palm Springs Official Site
Palm Springs Aerial Tramway
Indian Canyons
Tahquitz Canyon
Palm Springs Art Museum
Cabazon Dinosaurs
Hadley Fruit Orchards

Date of trip: November 2009

While Will and I were visiting Portugal, we spent a day in Sintra, 45 minutes from Lisbon via a train that runs every 20 minutes. Unlike Lisbon, the town is full of character and charm and conjures up images of the Moors and Portuguese royalty.

Highlights:

-We started our day at Quinta da Regaleira, an estate reached by a 10 minute walk from the center of town. The mansion itself is impressive, but empty and the main reason to visit is the grounds. Full of ponds, forts and passages, the property is a Gothic playground that you could easily spend hours exploring. Although we were intrigued by the underground caves, we were too chicken to walk through the long, dark tunnels. I definitely think a flashlight would have come in handy here!

-The Palacio Nacional de Sintra served as a home to Portuguese royalty for centuries until the monarchy ended in 1910. The interior design is very interesting with detailed tiles portraying the theme of each room, including the Swan Room and the Magpie Room. Also of note is the sprawling kitchen with its giant, white, conical chimneys that reach up through the roof.

-Anywhere you stand in Sintra, you can see the Castelo dos Mouros sitting high on a hill. The Moorish Castle was built between the 8th and 10th centuries A.D. and getting there is a hike. The best way to reach the base is to buy a round trip bus ticket that includes a stop at the nearby Palacio Nacional de Pena. Once you arrive, be prepared for a climb. I only made it up one side, but the effort was worth it. With the entire town laid out below you, the view is incomparable.

-Not far from the Moorish Castle, on another hill, is the Palacio Nacional de Pena. With round, brightly colored towers and vaulted arches, it looks more like a mosque than a European palace. Inside, the rooms reflect its purpose as a summer residence for the Portuguese royal family until the end of their reign.

Sintra is a wonderful place that should not be overlooked. While I enjoyed my time in Lisbon, it is Sintra that has everything I had hoped to encounter in Portugal: beautiful architecture, a romantic history and lush, sweeping countryside.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Sintra Links:
Sintra Official Site

Date of trip: November 2009

Although I didn’t know much about Portugal, Will and I decided to check it out over Thanksgiving when we got a great deal on airfare. Lisbon is very spread out and hilly in some areas, kind of like San Francisco, but the public transportation is cheap and easy to figure out.

Highlights:

-My favorite section of Lisbon was Belem because there is so much to do there. The first thing you notice in Belem is Mosteiro dos Jerónimos, an imposing monastery that stretches more than a block down the street. It contains the royal tombs and is the final resting place of many notable Portuguese. It also has a beautiful two story cloister with a lion fountain in it. Apparently, it is customary to rub the lion’s paw and make a wish. Nearby, the brand new Berardo Museum displays a fantastic collection of modern art and, across the street, sits the truly awesome Monument to the Discoveries, a giant statue of famous explorers setting sail on the River Tagus. A short walk down the road brings you to the Tower of Belem, an old fortress built in the early 1500s which offers unparalleled views of the river and was used to spot approaching ships. From the top, you can see the 25 de Abril Bridge, which resembles and was built by the same company as San Francisco’s Golden Gate, and Cristo Rei, a 246ft monument of Jesus that was modelled after Brazil’s Christ the Redeemer. Back near the tram stop, the National Coach Museum, showcases one of the best collections of ceremonial and travel carriages in the world. Last but not least, a visit to Belem would not be complete without a stop at Pasteis de Belem, a famous cafe that has been serving up the best pasteis de nata, egg tarts, in Lisbon since 1837. The pastries are served warm and are traditionally sprinkled with cinnamon and powdered sugar. If you can’t get a table there’s a take out line where you can get the tarts to go.

-The Baixa District is the downtown area of Lisbon and its streets are lined with shops and restaurants. It’s a really pretty area, especially during the holiday season when it’s covered with bright colored lights. Since the area is situated at the bottom of two big hills, trams are a great way to get around and the Santa Justa Elevator connects Baixa to the Barrio Alto, or old town. The elevator is worth riding for the view alone and, if you’ve purchased a day pass for public transportation, it will cover the fare.

-The Parque de Nacoes, which was built for the Expo ‘98 World Exhibition, remains a fun and popular place to visit. It is located at the city’s nicest metro stop, Oriente station. There are many gardens and trails in the park making it a great place to spend a nice day. There’s also a nice aquarium called the Oceanerio, and cable cars that glide overhead giving riders the best view of the Vasco de Gama bridge, one of the longest in the world.

I wouldn’t say I fell in love with Lisbon, but it is a lovely place. I wasn’t crazy about the food and the culture seemed heavily influenced by the English, Spanish and French. At the same time, the city did have a look all its own and strolling down the charming cobble stoned streets while admiring the old tiled buildings was the best part of my visit.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Lisbon Links:
Lisbon Official Site
Mosteiro dos Jerónimos
Berardo Museum
Tower of Belem
National Coach Museum
Pasteis de Belem – Portuguese Only
Parque de Nacoes

Date of trip: August 2009

The Galapagos Islands have always seemed to me the most exotic and special place in the world. When naturalist Charles Darwin travelled there in the 1800s he found them to be the best example of his theory of evolution. Although some of the animals on different islands were similar to each other and to those found on mainland South America he realized many came from one species that had ended up on different islands. Isolated and unable to leave, they adapted and evolved into new species with characteristics better suited to life in their new homes. The best examples of this are the finches who often look identical on different islands except for their beaks, which vary in size and length depending on the food source available there.

Tourists can’t go to the Galapagos on their own. They must be accompanied by a licensed naturalist who has gotten approval from the park service for the visit ahead of time. While there are some small hotels, many of the islands are far apart so the majority of visitors travel and sleep on a boat to make the most of their time.

Will and I decided to go on the Celebrity Xpedition. Although the Xpedition has been criticized as the largest boat in the Galapagos, I was very impressed with the staff and their conservation efforts and I was happy with our decision. We spent seven days on the ship taking two excursions on land per day, usually on different islands.

Highlights:

North Seymour Island: Sea lions, some of them with nursing babies, greeted us as we pulled up to North Seymour on our zodiac. They are so cute and will get pretty close to you, but you have to remember that they are wild and respect their space. The rocky terrain provided good nesting and resting areas for many birds including blue footed boobies and bright, red-necked frigate birds. The blue footed boobies are especially fun to watch when they dive for fish. They just crash down into the water like little bombs!

San Cristobal Island: Most foreigners probably don’t expect people to be living in the Galapagos, but there are a lot of little towns. We went to one on San Cristobal and walked along the beach admiring the bright orange Sally Lightfoot crabs on the dark black rocks. We also visited the Centro de Interpretacion, a small museum about 15 minutes from downtown with nice displays detailing the interesting and sometimes brutal history of the Galapagos.

Espanola Island: On Espanola we saw many nesting birds along the cliffs including masked boobies and albatross. We saw more blue footed boobies and even caught a couple doing a mating dance. Nearby, a Galapagos hawk was sitting among a group of iguanas deciding whether or not to have one for dinner.

Floreana Island: Florida usually comes to mind when I think of flamingos but there are several areas with brackish ponds in the Galapagos that make optimal feeding grounds for the birds. We visited a few such places on Floreana Island and it was particularly beautiful because we saw a rainbow stretched over one of them.

Bartolome Island: On Bartolome we hiked up a long wooden staircase to the top of a volcano for stunning views. The landscape was ashy and barren except for some lava cactus sprouting up through the rocks. Although we didn’t see many animals on the island other than birds, we did spot some penguins in the caves nearby and also had a mother and baby humpback whale swim by us in our zodiac.

Fernandina Island: Will couldn’t wait to see a marine iguana and Fernandina is home to a huge colony of them. They are endemic to the Galapagos and are the only iguana in the world that can swim. We watched many of them gliding through the water, making their way onto the lava flows where they sat frozen in the sun for hours. Hundreds of them were soaking up the heat, motionless except for little snorts every few minutes to spit the salt from the water out of their noses.

Santiago Island: Even though most of the animals in the Galapagos are relatively unafraid of people, there are a couple that were hunted in the past and still have some fear. One of those is the fur seal, a type of sea lion with a thick furry coat that the animal was killed for until it was made illegal in 1959. We saw a few of them playing on Santiago and they are really cute and mischievous. We went snorkeling on several of the islands but Santiago was my favorite spot. We counted over 20 sea turtles and even had a penguin swim up to us!

Santa Cruz Island : The most populated island we visited was Santa Cruz where we did some shopping and toured the Charles Darwin Research Station. The station’s main focus is a giant tortoise breeding program and we got to see many of the famous animals, from babies to full size adults. The tortoise is another animal on the islands that has fear of humans because of past hunting. They are timid and shy and some are over 100 years old, making them the oldest animals on the planet. One of the tortoises is called Lonesome George because he is the last of his species. The station has been trying to find another of his kind or get him to mate with a female of a different species but he is uninterested. After decades of solitude, they fear he doesn’t remember how to socialize. Out of the downtown area, we went to some more remote sections of Santa Cruz where we watched two large land iguanas fighting and saw more giant tortoises grazing in the wild.

We were blown away by the number of different animals we came in contact with on this trip. Standing next to a giant tortoise is definitely the ultimate Galapagos experience but for me it was bittersweet. When you look into the eyes of a gentle animal that has been hunted almost to the point of extinction you can’t help but feel guilty. There are so many precious creatures in the Galapagos that are in danger of disappearing and it is heart breaking. Fortunately, the people of the islands have a vested interest in preserving them. Not only do they get a sense of pride from keeping their home beautiful, but it’s also the best way for them to make a living. Tourism is the biggest source of income in the Galapagos. The natives struggle to balance protecting the land with allowing visitors to enjoy it and while it’s likely to be a long battle, they are really trying to make it work.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Galapagos Islands Links:
The Charles Darwin Foundation
Celebrity Xpedition

Date of trip: August 2009

Will and I didn’t set out to visit Quito but, when we booked a trip to the Galapagos, our group met up and spent a few nights there. It’s not the most popular and cosmopolitan city in Ecuador, that would be Guayaquil, but it is the capitol and the center for the country’s government and business. It’s a busy place full of traffic and crowds and, at over 9,000 feet above sea level, it’s one of the highest cities in the world. Will and I woke up with altitude headaches the first night but coca tea, plenty of water and some chocolate helped us to get back to sleep and through the next day. Although we felt safe, there was definitely a dodgy feel in the center and shopping areas and we did have to stay alert.

Highlights:

-The Basilica del Voto Nacional sits high on a hill near the old town and is the tallest church in Ecuador. Although its size is impressive, it’s when you get up close that you see what really makes the cathedral special. Like most churches, it’s adorned with many statues but, instead of the usual gargoyles, stone grotesques of animals jump out from the sides of the building. The animals represented are native to Ecuador and include iguanas, turtles, monkeys and jaguars. The cathedral is technically unfinished and locals believe that its completion will mark the end of the world.

-The Plaza de la Independencia is the main square in Quito’s old town. It’s busy and loud with people everywhere and live music. It’s a great place to people watch, but you also have to keep a close watch on your belongings as there are many pickpockets in the area. The plaza is filled with monuments and gardens and surrounded by buildings including the President’s Palace.

-The most popular tourist area in the city is called La Mariscal. It offers plenty of shopping with everything from handmade goods at the handicraft market to items like art and jewelry at more upscale stores. There are also plenty of cafes, restaurants and nightclubs.

-The equator, or imaginary line that cuts through the center of the earth, goes right through Ecuador and, in fact, gave the country its name. A visit to Quito would not be complete without standing on the line and visiting the monument and museum set up where it’s located. Since the word for equator in Spanish is ecuador, the area is called the Mitad del Mundo, the middle of the world.

-Quito is surrounded by volcanoes and some are quite spectacular because they are capped with snow. You can get a glimpse of many of them while driving around or through a plane window when flying in or out of the city.

-A popular day trip from Quito is to Mindo, an area known for its cloud forest. A cloud forest is a rainforest but, when you look at it from a distance, clouds sit over it and cover it. It takes about two hours to get to Mindo but it is a wonderful escape from the city. There is a beautiful botanical garden with waterfalls and an orchid garden and a butterfly sanctuary where the pretty insects often land right on visitors. Our favorite part of our tour through the cloud forest was seeing so many different birds up close. I have never seen so many hummingbirds in my life! In Mindo they buzz around like little bees in the hundreds around hanging feeders in all different sizes and colors. If you stand close to the feeders they zip right past you at impossible speeds. We also saw finches, tanagers and even several toucans.

Like most of South America, Ecuador is a country in transition. All over Quito there are construction projects and the locals seem motivated and anxious to improve their lives and their city. All this growth makes South America one of the most exciting areas to visit. Whenever I am there, I feel like I am watching history unfold and I know that whatever I see during my visit will look completely different in 5-10 years. Quito may still be somewhat gritty, but it is definitely a city in progress.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Quito Links:
Quito Official Site

Date of trip: June 2009

Grand Teton National Park is literally right below Yellowstone and it’s often overshadowed by its more famous neighbor. Although Yellowstone’s accolades are well deserved, Teton is an incredible place as well and should not be overlooked.

Highlights:

-The star of the park is the Teton Mountain Range which was pushed up by a fault line it sits on millions of years ago. The peaks are covered by snow year round and are truly breathtaking. The Tetons can be seen from pretty much every area in the park, but the paved road on the eastern side has many turnouts which offer the best views along with signs explaining the history and geology of the mountains.

-My favorite place in all of Teton was the Jackson Lake Lodge and my reasons have nothing to do with the hotel rooms. Inside the main lobby of the lodge are 60 foot, floor to ceiling windows offering unparalleled views of the Willow Flats area. This is one of the best places to spot moose, bear and elk and, because it is indoors, it can be enjoyed even in poor weather conditions. Will and I began and ended all of our days in the park here and one morning we witnessed a bear hunt down and snatch a newborn baby elk. It was an equally thrilling and horrifying sight and a glimpse into the wild and harsh realities of life for the animals in Teton.

-Another great place to spot wildlife is on the road leading up Signal Mountain. It’s long and winding and not the easiest drive, but if you proceed slowly and keep your eyes peeled you’ll be rewarded. We saw elk and deer during our ascent and a delightful pair of mating dusky grouse at the top. The male was puffed up, dancing and showing off his brilliant plumage.

-Jenny Lake sits at the base of the Tetons and offers a stunning view of the range. This area holds the park’s 5 star resort, Jenny Lake Lodge, a collection of beautiful, well appointed cabins complete with patios to admire the scenery at all hours. This section of the park is popular with hikers because Jenny Lake is the starting point for many of the park’s trails.

-The Menor’s Ferry District is an old homesteading area next to the Snake River. It belonged to Bill Menor in the 1800s who ran a country store and ferried early travelers across the water. Today, visitors can still shop in the store, ride over the river on a replica ferryboat and get a glimpse of pioneer life in Menor’s cabin. Nearby, the Chapel of the Transfiguration has a window on its altar that frames the Teton Mountains. It’s one of the most beautiful little churches I’ve ever been in.

-Just outside of the park’s southern entrance is the Craig Thomas Discovery and Visitor’s Center, a state of the art museum and auditorium. It’s the best place to learn all about Grand Teton and gather information to plan your stay in the park. There’s also a shop with maps and souvenirs and a ranger desk where you can get current weather reports and a schedule of park events.

-Snake River winds through almost the entire length of Grand Teton and it’s a great place to find wildlife as they look for water or food or rest on the cool banks. Float trips down the river on rubber rafts are offered several times a day. Although there are no guarantees that you’ll sight any specific animals, you’ll definitely see birds, perhaps even a bald eagle. The Oxbow Bend Turnout, a section of the river near Jackson Lodge is popular territory for beavers and moose.

Grand Teton National Park is covered in mountains and open flatlands. The geography is ideal for wildlife viewing because a visitor can perch on an elevated area with a vast stretch of land before them to observe while animals make their way across. When I visit a park, I relish the opportunities I have to get away from the crowds and find a peaceful place where I can feel part of the natural world and just enjoy it. Teton is full of such locations and that is what makes it is such a special place.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Grand Teton Links:
Grand Teton National Park Official Site
Grand Teton Lodging and Activities

Date of trip: June 2009

While the Upper Loop of Yellowstone does have some of the many geothermal features that are widespread in the Lower Loop, it is better characterized by its rocky mountains and rolling green valleys. It is quieter, wilder and less developed and it feels like a completely different park.

Highlights:

-Roosevelt Lodge is the most remote area of Yellowstone that guests can stay in without camping. It consists of a restaurant serving tasty southern food, a simple convenience store and 80 cabins. The Frontier Cabins, of which there are 14, have bathrooms, showers and electric heat. The remainder of the cabins, called Roughriders, share public bathrooms and are equipped with wood burning stoves. We were able to secure a very nice Frontier Cabin but I had to book it by phone as it showed up unavailable online. It was such a lovely, peaceful place to stay and many of the guests enjoyed drinks on the porch of the restaurant in the mornings and evenings. There are a few tours offered from Roosevelt including an Old West Dinner Cookout which includes a covered wagon ride. Not far from the lodge is the lookout for Tower-Fall, a pretty waterfall on the northern end of the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone.

-The Upper Loop of Yellowstone is prime habitat for pretty much all of the wildlife in the park, especially in the wide open spaces of Lamar Valley. We saw about ten times more bison here than in any other area as well as many elk and pronghorn. Lamar is also the place to spot the elusive gray wolves, black and grizzly bears, bighorn sheep and coyotes. We saw all of the above!

-When Yellowstone was named the first National Park it was managed by the Army for over 30 years until the formation of the National Park Service. Their headquarters, Fort Yellowstone, was located in the Mammoth Hot Springs section of the park. Today, the area still serves as park headquarters and holds administrative offices and housing for employees. Many of the buildings are closed to the public, but there is a nice museum which chronicles the park’s history and has models of the resident animals. There are also lodging and dining options in Mammoth, but the main attraction in the area are the Springs themselves. The mineral rich water has created large white shelves of calcium deposits left over thousands of years. Algae living in the pools tints some of them with shades of orange and red. The formations are split into Upper and Lower Terraces which can be explored by foot or by car.

-The Roosevelt Arch stands at the northern entrance to Yellowstone, which is actually in Montana. It was built in 1903 to serve as the official entrance to the park when the railroad began serving the adjoining town. President Theodore Roosevelt laid down the cornerstone of the arch in a ceremony attended by thousands.

-Sheepeater Cliff was formed by lava flows hundreds of thousands of years ago. The basalt stone, resulting from the hardened lava, cracks into smaller pieces and falls, creating piles of loose rocks. Aside from its interesting appearance, what makes the cliff special are the yellow-bellied marmots that live within the crevices. I thought they might be shy and hard to spot so I was thrilled when we drove up and found one sprawled out, resting on a rock in full view!

-If you’ve ever wondered how someone becomes a park ranger or what is involved in the job, you can find out at the Museum of the National Park Ranger in the Norris area. The museums has displays featuring old photos, ranger uniforms and models of ranger cabins. Best of all, there are rangers working in the museum that are happy to talk about their jobs and answer questions about what they do.

It’s unfortunate that some people visit Yellowstone without traveling to the Upper Loop of the park. The Lower Loop is a remarkable place but it was in the less crowded Upper Loop, where I found peace and solitude, that I really felt connected to nature. To truly experience all the park has to offer, a visitor should see both.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

You can read more about my trip to Yellowstone by visiting my Lower Loop post.

Yellowstone Links:
Yellowstone National Park Official Site
Yellowstone Hotel and Tour Reservations

Date of trip: June 2009

Most summers, Will and I plan a National Park trip and this year we decided to visit the very first park, Yellowstone. Yellowstone was declared a National Park in 1872 when early explorers convinced President Ulysses Grant that it was a special place that should be protected. The park is massive, with the main roads dividing it into an upper and lower loop that form a figure eight. Ideally, a visitor should spend at least 2-3 days in each part.

Lower Loop Highlights:

-There are several lodging options in the Old Faithful area, but the most popular is the Old Faithful Inn, the largest log hotel in the world. The lobby of the inn is magnificent with a towering clock fireplace, a large array of places to sit and live music most nights. We stayed in one of the old house rooms with a private bathroom and although it was very charming, the plumbing wasn’t the best. Still, I can’t imagine visiting the park and not spending at least one night here. The hotel also has an excellent dining room and dinner reservations are recommended.

-The Old Faithful Inn is so named because it sits next to the world famous Old Faithful Geyser which erupts about every 45 minutes. The inn posts when it is expected to blow but they can be off by up to 30 minutes on either side of their projection. The geyser may not be the most impressive feature in the park but it is spectacular and, because it’s synonymous with Yellowstone, it should not be missed. Old Faithful Geyser is part of the Upper Geyser Basin which includes additional geysers and mineral pools and can be toured by following trails of pavement and wooden platforms. My favorite site in the area was the two-toned Morning Glory Pool, one of the prettiest in Yellowstone.

-At the Midway Geyser Basin hot water pours from Excelsior Geyser into the cold Firehole River creating rows of steam. Grand Prismatic Spring, which is the park’s largest is also here. If you’ve ever seen pictures of Yellowstone, you’ve no doubt seen one of this massive pool glistening in bright shades of blue and orange. It is so large that it’s impossible to get a photograph of the whole thing unless you take the Fairy Falls hike up to a hill overlooking it. The colors in the pool are actually reflections of the sun and sky so they do not show up as strongly on a cloudy day. If it is very cold or snowing, as it was when we visited, it may be almost completely obscured by steam. This is also a good area to spot bison. We watched a herd with babies cross the Firehole River early one morning during a storm;an image I will never forget.

-There is nothing quite like the sound of a bubbling mud pot and you can see the best example of one by visiting the Fountain Paint Pot in the Lower Geyser Basin. There are also some nice pools here, Celestine Pool and Silex Spring, and several geysers, some of which erupt almost constantly.

-Canyon Village is one of the busiest areas in the park. It has many places to shop and eat (don’t miss the grizzly berry ice cream) and a beautiful, state of the art Visitor’s Center where you can learn all about Yellowstone’s history. Nearby is the majestic Grand Canyon of Yellowstone which you can get amazing views of at various lookouts including the most popular near the colorful Artist’s Point. If you can handle the challenging hikes to the summits of the Upper and Lower Falls, they are both worth the effort.

-Although bison travel all over Yellowstone, the best place to see them in the lower loop is Hayden Valley. It’s very common to have a close encounter with them here because they graze around the roads. As long as you keep a safe distance and remain in your car, it’s a great experience. Mud Volcano and Sulphur Cauldron are also located in the valley and shouldn’t be missed. Will and I could have stood in front of the smoking Dragon’s Mouth Spring for hours.

-Just north of Yellowstone Lake is Fishing Bridge, a major spawning area for cutthroat trout. Although fishing is not allowed, you can observe the fish in their active months and get a great view of the lake from the wooden bridge during the rest of the year. Yellowstone Lake is the largest in the park and it’s interesting because, although it looks calm, it sits on top of geysers and other geothermal features. There is some limited boating allowed but swimming is not safe. The Lake Yellowstone Hotel is the oldest in the park and the most upscale. It has a 1920s feel complete with a gorgeous sun room where guests can have a drink while they enjoy looking out on the lake. It also has a fabulous restaurant considered the best in Yellowstone. Dinner reservations are a must, but you can probably stop in for breakfast or lunch unannounced.

-The Grant Village/West Thumb area is the closest to the southern entrance. Grant Village is a great place to spot elk and the West Thumb Geyser Basin is probably the most underrated basin area in Yellowstone. Its stunning pools and hot springs are just a quick walk from the parking lot.

The Lower Loop of Yellowstone is the caldera or crater area caused by massive volcanic eruptions that occurred hundreds of thousands, even millions of years ago. It is the more popular section of the park because it contains the best examples of the geothermal features that Yellowstone is known for: geysers and colorful mineral pools. Although there are a few other places in the world where such phenomena exist like Iceland and New Zealand, Yellowstone is the only place left completely in its natural state and not exploited as a power source. It is truly unlike any place on Earth and perhaps the greatest example of nature’s extreme power and strength to both create and destroy.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

You can read more about my trip to Yellowstone by visiting my Upper Loop post.

Yellowstone Links:
Yellowstone National Park Official Site
Yellowstone Hotel and Tour Reservations

Date of trip: June 2009

Jackson Hole is the valley in Wyoming encircled by the Teton and Gros Ventre mountain ranges. Among the places contained in the valley are an airport, the National Elk Refuge, part of Grand Teton National Park, Teton Village and the town of Jackson. I explain this because it’s easy to mistake Jackson the town and Jackson Hole as the same place when, in fact, one is a section of the other. Will and I didn’t originally plan to spend much time in Jackson Hole, but after driving through the area on the way to Yellowstone and the Tetons, we realized there were quite a few things to see there and decided to come back for a look.

Highlights:

-From the Jackson Hole Airport, we headed to the National Museum of Wildlife Art located 10 minutes away. The museum has over 5,000 pieces in its permanent collection and it’s widely considered the finest of its kind in the world. Many of the paintings are so detailed they look like photographs of animals and some of the sculptures look real. It is truly a unique place because while art usually offers an escape, the art here reminds you of beauty that exists in the real world and how important it is to protect the amazing creatures we share this earth with.

-Teton Village is right outside of Grand Teton National Park and because it includes the Jackson Hole Mountain Resort, it is the best place for winter sports. It’s a small village with hotels, restaurants and shops and though it has posh accommodations, including a Four Seasons, there is also a big hostel so it caters to all budgets. Obviously, you can’t ski during the summer but you can take the famous Aerial Tram up the mountain. The tram just reopened after 2 years of renovations and it doesn’t disappoint. Although it was cloudy and snowing (in JUNE!) during our ride, we still managed to spot two moose resting on the mountain. At the top there is a cafe where you can have a snack and a drink while you wait for the next tram down.

-In downtown Jackson, the Town Square has something for just about everyone. There are historic hotels, restaurants and bars as well as galleries and plenty of shopping. There are carriage rides and staged “shoot-outs” in the summer. Everything has a western flavor and you must get a photo next to one of the four elk antler archways.

Before I traveled to Jackson Hole, I had a picture in my mind of a place full of wide open spaces in the middle of nowhere. There are definitely sections like that but there are also areas that are unmistakably urban with many things to do. The contrast between the developed and undeveloped parts makes the valley a particularly fun and interesting place to visit.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Jackson Hole Links:
Jackson Hole Official Site
National Museum of Wildlife Art
Teton Village/Jackson Hole Mountain Resort
Jackson Hole Aerial Tram

Date of trip: April 2009

Denmark has been on my list of places to visit since a close friend of mine married a Dane and moved there several years ago. Although we were not able to visit her due to the distance she lives from Copenhagen, I was happy to finally see the place she has so often written to me about.

Highlights:

-Tivoli Gardens, the oldest amusement park in the world, is probably the most well known attraction in Copenhagen. It is open from the late spring to early fall and for a couple of weeks over the Halloween and Christmas seasons. As the concierge at our hotel told us, “Don’t expect Disney!” but it is a charming place with many cool rides, shops and a huge variety of dining options. There is also live entertainment and the park is one of the few places in the city that stays open until midnight or later. It’s debatable whether it’s more fun during the day when all the rides are running and you can see the pretty gardens or at night when the park glows with multi-colored lights. We went a couple of hours before dark and stayed so we could see it both ways.

-I’m not sure why The Little Mermaid statue has become THE symbol of the city but perhaps it’s because Hans Christian Anderson, who wrote the fairy tale, was one of Copenhagen’s most famous residents. The harbor where she sits is a bit of a walk from the city center, but on a nice day it’s lovely and you can walk through Kastellet Fortress, a former military wall that now serves as a park and monument. Over the years, the mermaid has been vandalized a number of times, usually by feminist groups, but it only seems to add to her popularity.

-Housed in the Prince’s Palace the Nationalmuseet is home to a fine collection of Danish artifacts. I especially liked the collections from the Viking and Middle Ages as they included some interesting items like drinking horns, weapons and clothing from those periods that I had never before seen.

-There many pedestrian only streets in Europe but, at a full mile, the Stroget in Copenhagen is the longest. Along the walkway you’ll find everything from high-end, designer retailers and department stores to souvenir and ice cream stands. The ice cream is absolutely fantastic and is only better in Italy! At the end of the Stroget there is a popular harbor area lined with restaurants called Nyhavn which is popular with both locals and tourists. It’s also the best place to jump on a canal boat for a tour of the city by water.

-The Louisiana Museum of Modern Art is located about 45 minutes north of Copenhagen by train in Humlebaek. It’s a must see for it’s outstanding collection and beautiful waterfront location. A fun fact is that the house was called the Louisiana by it original owner, Alexander Brun, for the simple reason that all three of his wives were named Louise! You can buy a combination train/admission ticket at Copenhagen central station and the Louisiana also has a great cafe making it an ideal place to take a day trip.

-Another popular trip from the city is Roskilde which is 30 minutes away by train and famous because it was founded by Vikings. The Viking Ship Museum is a great place to learn about Viking life and check out some of their ships which are on display. During the summer months, you can even go for a sail in one on the fjord. In the center of town, the Roskilde Cathedral has been the final resting place of the Danish Royal family since 1535. The coffins are above ground in tombs which guests can walk through freely.

There are many characteristics that Copenhagen possesses which are typical of a European city but there are also some that are definitely unique. Scandinavia had a decidedly different past than other parts of the world, specifically during the Viking Age. Seeing the artifacts and exploring the history of this era was my favorite aspect of my trip to Copenhagen. Of course, I love shopping or visiting a great art museum, but it was the new things like seeing Viking helmets and stepping on a Viking ship for the first time that really excited me.

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Copenhagen Links:
Copenhagen Official Site
Nyhavn
Nationalmuseet
Tivoli Gardens
Louisiana Museum of Modern Art
Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde
Roskilde Cathedral