Date of trip: December 2007

Of all the places Will and I planned to visit on our trip to Peru, I was most worried about Lima. Many people had warned me about rampant crime, corruption and unsafe conditions in the city. While I’m sure these still exist in some sections, we were delighted to find Lima a pleasant, safe and fun place. It actually has a very American feel to it. We chose to visit the central area on a tour, which I recommend as it could be tricky trying to get around by cab or bus. Will, who had visited many times before, says Lima has changed a lot and he was very pleased with the direction it seems to be heading. That said, it is developing and you should take the same precautions you would in any city and remember not to drink the water!

Highlights:

-Miraflores is one of the nicest areas in Lima and it’s easy and safe to wander around. There are plenty of shops and restaurants including the Larcomar center, down by the water. Larcomar offers a beautiful view of the coastline which is worth checking out during the day and after dark as well.

-La Rosa Nautica restaurant is famous not only for it’s food but also it’s location right on the water. Also in Miraflores, it is the perfect stop for an excellent lunch or dinner. During the day you can look out on the ocean and watch the surfers or marvel at the paragliders sailing overhead. After you eat, you can visit the small gift shops along the pier for great Peruvian gifts.

-El Parque del Amor the “Love Park” is a favorite of the locals. Set on a cliff overlooking the ocean, it features a giant statue of a couple kissing called El Beso(the kiss) by sculptor Victor Delfin. Every Valentine’s Day, couples gather under the monument and compete in a longest kiss contest. The park walls are tiled with messages of love written in Spanish and Quechua, a native Peruvian language.

-Most people don’t expect to find ruins in the midst of a city, but Lima actually has a few archaeological sites. One such place is Huaca Pucllana, also known as Juliana. Built by pre-Inca people around 400 A.D., the mud brick pyramid is thought to have been a center for religious ceremonies. Although Huaca Pucllana is open to visitors, it is still undergoing excavations. A small museum showcases some of the artifacts that have been unearthed. Also of interest are the hairless Peruvian dogs which are kept on site as part of the historic scenery. Like the ruins, this breed of dog is over 3,000 years old and their black skin and yellow mohawks give them a unique appearance indeed.

-In central Lima you will find the Plaza de Armas, the main square. Outside the plaza is the Palacio del Gobierno where the president of Peru lives. The palace offers tours and you can also catch the changing of the guards every day at noon. Close by is La Cathedral, Lima’s main cathedral which is connected to the Palacio Episcopal or bishop’s palace, known for it’s beautiful wooden balconies. The cathedral was created by the Spanish conquerors led by Francisco Pizarro who placed the first stone during construction and is buried inside. Although it is a Catholic church, it was built primarily by Incas forced to convert to the religion and there are many symbols of their pagan beliefs hidden within the cathedral’s paintings and sculptures.

-About a 10 minute walk from the city center is the Iglesia de San Francisco, a church well known for its catacombs. It was Lima’s first cemetery and the bones have been dug up and filed into bins by type. It is fascinating though perhaps unsettling to see all the bones, at times arranged in grotesque art-like patterns. Upstairs is a pretty cloister and impressive artwork undergoing restorations; most notably a painting of the Last Supper featuring guinea pig as the main course! There is also a library which is absolutely beautiful but sadly deteriorating as lack of funding prevents the air conditioning necessary to protect the old books.

-Although I enjoyed the Museo de Oro del Perú or Gold Museum, visitors should be aware of its troubled history. Once considered a world class exhibit of pre-Colombian gold artifacts, it was revealed a few years ago that much of the collection was actually fake. The museum was fined and claims to have removed the unauthentic pieces, but it is unclear at this point whether those claims are genuine. Still, I learned a lot about Peru’s history here and I think it’s a place worth visiting. In addition to the jewelry on display, there are mummies and examples of ceremonial clothing and weaponry. Outside there are gift shops featuring local crafts at reasonable prices.

Lima is an up and coming city working diligently to compete on the world stage as a center for business and recreation. Although people have been passing through while visiting Peru for many years, more and more they are extending their stays in the country’s capitol to enjoy its rich history and scenic coastline. I loved Lima and I believe in the years ahead it will continue to grow and become a top travel destination in South America. I know I will be back!

For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.

Lima Links:
Peru Official Site
Larcomar
La Rosa Nautica
Huaca Pucllana (Spanish only)
La Cathedral de Lima (Spanish only)
Museo de Oro del Perú (Spanish only)