Date of trip: July 2007
In the late 1940s, a group of influential architects educated at Harvard University moved to New Canaan, Connecticut. They chose the location for its proximity to Manhattan and because they were able to buy large, inexpensive plots of land to build on. New Canaan has since become famous for its collection of modern homes and the most recognized is the Glass House built by Philip Johnson. Johnson spent much of his life at the property and called it his “50 year diary”. The title “Glass House” refers not only to the glass home he built there but also to the other structures and sculptures on the 47 acre estate. With his partner David Whitney, Johnson played host to many artists here, including Andy Warhol and Jasper Johns. After his death in 2005, the Glass House was turned over to the National Trust for Historic Preservation and in June of 2007 it was opened to the public.
Visits to the Glass House must be booked well in advance. Although photographs are not allowed on the regular 90 minute tours which are $25/person, they are encouraged on the last tour of the day which is 2 hours and $40/person. There are fourteen structures on the estate and five are visited up close on the guided tours.
Visited Sites:
Glass House: Although it was lived in, the Glass House is often described as a viewing pavilion for the property. From its perch on a hill, one can easily observe the grounds through the transparent walls. Inside, there is minimal furniture and a hidden fireplace, bathroom and stove. Though Johnson considered the outside scenery his art, he carefully chose one painting and one sculpture to exhibit inside. Johnson had a New York apartment where I assume he stored the bulk of his “stuff” but he must have felt so free while he stayed here. Spending time in such a clean, clear space surrounded by nature must have been a peaceful escape from the craziness of Manhattan.
Brick House: Across from the Glass House, the Brick House is its opposite. Instead of clear sides, it is encased in brick with only skylights and two oval windows at the back. The structures were built as one project and meant as a lesson in contrasts. Interestingly, the Brick House contains all the support systems for both homes. Though it originally held three equal sized guest rooms, now there is just one with a corridor connecting it to a reading room.
Painting Gallery: Johnson and Whitney were avid collectors of art and their need to store and exhibit their treasures lead to the creation of the painting gallery. Modeled after a Greek tomb, the gallery is underground. Inside, rotating, poster rack panels allow for the storage of 42 paintings. Though somewhat impractical due to the moisture there which causes mold, Johnson’s creativity is truly impressive.
Sculpture Gallery: In addition to paintings, Johnson amassed many sculptures and felt compelled to build a fitting showroom for them. Inspired by a Greek village, the building is as much a part of the display as the pieces it holds. The design of the ceiling creates complex shadows and light patterns on the walls and floor that shift and change with the movement of the sun. Although critics say the light detracts from the art inside, I felt it enhanced and highlighted it.
Da Monsta: Da Monsta was so named for its lifelike quality and Johnson was known to walk around the building and actually pet it. Though designed to be a visitor’s center, it didn’t work out logistically. It is the last structure completed on the grounds and represents Johnson’s shift towards designing buildings as sculptures at the end of his life.
Other points of interest on the Glass House estate that you can not visit but can clearly see:
Library/Study – Johnson’s work space.
Ghost House – a chain link home-like structure covered in greens and flowers.
Lincoln Kirstein Tower – a 35ft sculpture Johnson coerced guests to climb.
Lake Pavilion – a landing where guests could sit on the man made pond.
Pool – a swimming hole with a sitting area called “the eyebrow”.
Philip Johnson’s influence on commercial architecture is undeniable but it’s his own home that best showcases his ideas about design throughout his life. A visit to the Glass House is a rare glimpse inside his world and a chance to visit a treasure in the world of modern art.
For more pictures, please visit my Photo Gallery or click on any of the photos posted above.
Glass House Links:
Philip Johnson Glass House Official Site
